Salt cod brandade

Have good salt cod, not soaked too long and well scaled, cook it as above; drain it at the first boil. Carefully remove all the bones, but leave the skin, which contributes greatly to the success of the operation. With all your pieces sorted and in a saucepan, set it on the corner of the stove so they keep a gentle warmth. Have milk in a small saucepan nearby, and, in another, oil, both moderately warm. Begin by adding, with the cod, a spoonful of oil, and work it vigorously with a wooden spoon so as to crush the pieces well against the sides of the pan; add from time to time and little by little a few spoonfuls

of oil and milk, alternating them, but always beating the spoon vigorously. (This is where the word brandade comes from: branler or brandir, meaning to shake or brandish.) When your preparation reaches a creamy state, so that no piece can be distinguished any longer, your brandade is finished. But to reach this essential point that marks complete success, there are many things to observe. First, one must keep to a moderate heat on the corner of the stove, otherwise the oil would separate from the mixture and the operation would fail. The milk and oil added should only be lukewarm. The pieces must have been well crushed from the start, and then, an essential point, the spoon must be worked with strength of arm. Some people, to make the work easier, pound the cod in a mortar before putting it in the pan and adding the oil and milk.

As seasoning, add a pinch of white pepper, a squeeze of lemon juice, a touch of grated nutmeg and garlic, and a piece of finely chopped lemon zest. Of course, a pinch of salt should be added if needed.

Once finished and warm to the right degree, a few slices of truffle may be mixed in. This is a matter of taste, not a strict requirement. It is arranged on a dish with fried croutons of bread, or with puff-pastry fleurons.

It can be used to fill vol-au-vent, small pies, etc. It is a very well received entree during Lent. It goes without saying that the addition of garlic is optional, as is that of the truffles. Were we a health advisor we might counsel you to use this dish only in moderation.